On the road again – an Homage to Dr. Robert Williams

Tragically, and unexpectedly, Jackie’s father passed away while we were in London in early August. After hearing the news we cancelled our trip and caught the next flights we could back to Virginia; neither of us have posted any updates since. It has been a nightmare to say the least; it’s a phone call you can never be prepared to receive – especially when so far away from home.

I wanted to dedicate this long overdue post to him.

Jackie’s father’s name was Robert Williams … eh hem … Sorry – **DR.** Robert Williams. He was an ex-military, urologist who graduated from West Point and served 27 years in the Army.

Jackie explained this all to me the first time I was to meet him at her family’s house for dinner about 4-years ago. She continued …

“Just so you know my Dad is a former Colonel of the Army. Don’t slouch and be respectful!”

She seemed anxious and was only half kidding. I assume she knew I would be respectful, but I think she wanted to instill a little fear in me so that I would be prepared.

“And whatever you do – don’t call him ‘Mr.’. It’s ‘Dr.”

To this day I still don’t know what she was so concerned about. Dr. Williams was polite, soft spoken, and kind. He was reserved at the dinner table but had a properness about him that spoke volumes. That being said, you could tell straightaway that he didn’t take well to B.S.

After dinner we moved on to a movie and desserts in the family room.  As we were shuffling rooms he found a chance to pull me aside in the kitchen for a brief one-on-one.

“You do know what I did in the military, right? Did Jackie tell you?”

“Yes. A urologist?”

“That’s right. And you know what a urologist does?”

He made a scissor clipping motion with his two fingers and stared me directly in the eyes. I nodded. My forehead wrinkled.

“So if you do anything to hurt my daughter…”

He purposefully left the sentence hanging to allow a dramatic pause to take its effect. I decided to end the silence.

“I understand, sir. I will take care of your daughter. You have nothing to worry about.”

“Just remember what I said.”

I think, for many people, that encounter could be viewed as “aggressive”. Not me. I found it to be a comical way to make a very important point. He didn’t exactly smile when he said it, but I could see in his eyes it was a sincere request with sharp edge he attempted soften. He loved his daughter helplessly and found a simple way to protect her while he wasn’t around: Medical experience and vivid imagery. I could see where Jackie got her prep strategy! Instilling fear via subtle comedy is a powerful mix.

Since then Dr. Williams had been a strong supporter of Jackie and I, and a champion for our love of travel.

Before we left for our “around the world trip” he bought us a Nikon CoolPix Waterproof camera and said:

“This is a once in a lifetime trip and you’ll want to make sure you get great pictures that you can appreciate for the rest of your lives.”

It was a gift from someone who knew what they were doing. We’ve used that camera EVERYWHERE! His only ask in return was that we take pictures of ourselves standing in front of signs wherever we went, and to send them to him. We were looking forward to seeing the result of what he had in mind, likely a picture book of some kind. Sadly it is I gift we will never see. Nevertheless, we will continue to take pictures of ourselves in front of signs from here on out and create a book at the end of our adventure, just as he would have done.

Dr. Williams traveled extensively; he was a wanderluster in his own right. Not only through his tours in the military, but he made a point to bring Jackie and her sisters along with him to see the world as they were growing up. He took them to places like Rome, Paris and London when they were teenagers, and continued the tradition into retirement. Most recently he took Jackie to Hawaii for some father/daughter time in 2014. It was their 5th visit together. She loved it.

He loved to travel vicariously through us. He did so by either tracking our flights, watching a tiny plane move across his computer screen (a tradition we plan to continue with one another), or by asking us to stop in places he had always wanted to visit (or re-visit) and sifting through the pictures and collecting souvenirs we’d send him. We got him tapestries from India of Hindu gods, pictures of architecture indicative of Turkey, and a medallion of Saint Bernadette from Lourdes, France. Hunting for items he requested became a sort of game for the three of us.

It only feels right that after his funeral Jackie and I made a cross country trip to collect his things in Palm Springs to bring them home. By doing so we completed our westward tour all the way around the world, starting and ending in California. We were lucky enough to meet his friends and loved ones while in Palm Springs and hear about all the sides of Dr. Williams that we hadn’t had a chance to know while he was with us.

So many of the people we met that knew him remembered him as I did: reserved at first but a loving, fair, forgiving and respectful person once he became more comfortable with those around him. It was a testament to him that all of his friends were so kind and welcoming to us. We were invited to dinners, to have drinks, see homes and even had a plate of delicious homemade fudge brought to our door (which was one of Dr. William’s favorites). In light of this tragic time I also got  a chance to get closer with Jackie’s family and had the absolute pleasure to spend a great deal of time with one of them in Palm Springs as we packed up the house together. I like to think of that as his final gifts to Jackie and I as a couple.

Now, over a month and a half later we are back in VA and preparing to start our trip up again. This time we will be moving eastward to complete our second revolution. We are re-invigorated to continue not in spite of Jackie’s father’s passing but as an homage to him. To carry on the love he had to see the world. He had dreams to visit us in Scotland where he wanted to visit Dunnottar Castle, a landmark that is part of his family’s heritage. Even though he is gone we will be completing that dream on his behalf within the next few weeks. It will be an emotional experience. We are also eager to visit South Korea by the end of the year, another of the places he was hoping to meet us.

I hadn’t written or posted anything here or FB since he passed because it honestly hasn’t felt right to do so. But now, as I sit here at BWI about to board our plane to Ireland, I can only imagine how happy he would be that we are carrying on. How proud he would be of how strong Jackie has been through the whole process. How excited he would be that we have found the energy to continue our trip, valuing experiences over things as did he.

World travel bests and superlatives

One of the first questions we get asked when people find out about our trip is, “what are your favorite spots, foods, and countries so far?!” It is a tough question. So many places are so very different and we enjoyed them each in different ways. That being said, I’ll try my best to give you all what you’re looking for ;p

Important Note: None of the food experiences listed here (including alcohol, tax and tip for two) ever broke $70. Most of our meals were between $20-$50. We think almost any city will have amazing food if you are willing to spend a lot. We believe the quality of an area is best represented by the easy-to-acquire foods, not the exquisite ones.

For items Jackie and I did not agree on we separated out our choices. We haven’t been everywhere yet so we reserve the right to change the list at anytime! 🙂

Best Fast-and-Cheap Dish

Gyros in Greece

For 2 Euros you can have a hot, meaty, saucy Gyro in under a minute. This is the best, and most consistently good and inexpensive food we’ve had so far.

Most consistently good food

France

We’ve enjoyed every meal we have had in France. From the street food of Quiche, Croque Monsieur, Socca, Crepes and Baguettes to the more sophisticated duck and foie, and fish dishes they are are average or better.

Best single dishes 

Tuscany (My #2, Jackies #1)

Unfortunately we had some bad food experiences in Italy so it didn’t get a consistent rating like france. That being said, when the meal hit it, they hit big. Jackie’s favorite Gnocchi and Both of our Favorite Pastas were in a town called Multi Poccino.

Paris France (Sean #1)

I was in heaven. I really enjoyed or Tuscan meal, but it didn’t have the variety and complexity you get with french food. My Favorite meal was a Cod Puree, Coq Au Vin, Watermelon and Tomato salad with Feta Cheese, and a Ratatouille Brioche. Including wine, tax, and tip it was all under 50 Euros!

Most likely to return

Istanbul

We heard a lot about how much our friends love istanbul so we had high expectations. Usually that ruins a trip. In this case, moments after we arrived at our hotel and took a stroll down our coble road to the Galata tower we got it. The city is alive with people, color, and texture. There are great clubs, bust towns, ancient history, and cheap holes. It is a lot to take in and a lot to do.

Paris

Jackie had her trepidations about visiting France based on a few childhood experiences, but once we got here they were all put to rest. The people have been friendly (ironically, except a few expats working here) the food has been yummy, and the sites have been wonderful. Paris is so massive and full of life that we agreed we will definitely return once again.

Best Dessert

Baklava in Istanbul

We ended up going to the same place 3 times in one week. Each time ordering “one portion” consisting of 6 pieces. Yeah – that is a lot of baklava and yet it was never enough. Man, I miss still miss it!

Country with the most diverse landscape and culture

Turkey

We hit Cappadocia, Istanbul and Ephesus. Each scene was so different to the next. The historic culture between conquests have left their mark on how overlapping the cultures are today. We heard there were great beach towns too that we didn’t get to see.

“Hidden Gem”

Budapest

You don’t hear much about this place but it is a much larger city than you expect. It is filled with monumental architecture, a nightlife, and festivals. It is considered one of the jewels of Europe and at the price points you can find there it is literally and figuratively a hidden gem to most American tourists.

Best Wildlife Experience

Australia

I will never in my life forget the feeling of holding a cuddly koala bear or feeding a wallaby and kangaroo. I know it is no big deal to the locals but it was the most heart warning awesomeness on our trip.

Most Likley to Live if not in US

Vienna

Clean, safe, cultural and food friendly.

Wellington, New Zealand

Earthy, fun, foody outdoorsy – reminds us of a merging of portland and SF.

 

From David to Venus: A video tour through Florence, Italy

We love how Florence is able to provide so many things to see and do into a town that very much feels like a part of the Tuscany countryside. The only downside is the mega crowds and lines you may have to  contend with to see the immense collection of art and architecture.

We started our tour with a stroll over the Ponte Alle Grazie and walked through an array of beautiful sculptures filling every corner of  the open air square at Loggia de Lanzi.

There is truly no end to the sites and art to see in Florence, from the Accademia which holds Michelangelo’s David (which is so much larger in real life than I had imagined), to the Birth of Venus in the Uffizi Gallery, you will be sure to check of a large chunk of your bucket list in this town.

Our drive through Chianti

Chianti is not an area you want to get lost in. Don’t get me wrong, the views are spectacular and the drive is like a long stroll through a museum of italian art, but when you take a wrong turn things go very bad, very gradually; an ugly combination.

We drove our little two door up many daringly narrow, gravel-paved roads before deciding to turn around. Nevertheless the mistakes turned out to make some fun memory (since we made it out unscathed) and the stops on the side of the road to take it all in made it totally worth it.

Our drive through and tastes of Tuscany, Italy

Of all the spots in the world we are marking as “must return here”, Tuscany is at the top. Sure, there are some things to be careful of while driving through Italy, but the long up-hill climbs to view the valleys from the entryways of medieval walled towns makes it so very worth it. Tuscany is the part of Italy you dream of when you imagine what a trip here would be like. So many other parts of Italy are too large or too touristy, but a great deal of Tuscany is made up of open roads and quaint towns.

Oh yeah, and the food! To be frank, the average Italian meal was only so-so, but the best meals we’ve had on the entire trip (and ones that were also modestly priced) were here in Tuscany.

In Pamplona The Sun Also Rises

My self-improvement/educational books began getting dry and it was time to learn more indirectly by ingesting some classic novels again. It may seem pretty naive of me looking back, but when I picked up a copy of Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises I had no idea how relevant it would be to our trip. I’ve read a couple of Hemingway’s books before and loved their balance between simplicity and great emotional depth.

As many of you seem to already know, the majority of the Sun Also Rises is based out of Pamplona, Spain. There, Hemingway’s characters find themselves in a bizarre love (or loveless) story entangled within its now famous annual fiesta of San Fermin and the Running of the Bulls. As it turns out, Hemingway’s story is exactly what gave the Running of the Bulls international popularity. Today San Fermin is now the largest festival in the entire world which he himself attended nine times in his life.

As Jake (the main character in the book) drew closer to his visit to Pamplona, I in turn drew closer to mine. I arrived with about twenty more pages to go and find it fitting to finish the book while I’m here.

It is amazing to walk the very same streets that he made famous in the novel. In some ways I feel like I’ve been here before – seventy years or so ago. Before we began doing research online for our standard “things to do” list, I surprisingly already knew when the rockets would go off, where the bulls would run and a general idea of what to expect in the chaos. I would never have thought a novel would make such a great travel guide! It is such an unforgettable feeling to experience a town in two ways such as this and I am excited to enjoy the festival only 24 hours away!

Off to finish the book and start my very own version of the experience. (I’ll add notes about the book in a later update.)